[VOL IV] PAGODA AND VILLAGE ON THE CANAL, NEAR CANTON

PAGODA AND VILLAGE ON THE CANAL, NEAR CANTON

Cover Image: Pagoda and Village, on the Canal near Canton / GuangZhou GuangDong China / Drawn by T. Allom Engraved by W.H.Capone – ALAMY Image ID:2X55NFF

*The waterway system in Guangzhou is highly developed. Located in the Pearl River Delta, Guangzhou boasts abundant water resources with a complex network of rivers and waterways. This includes the Pearl River itself and numerous tributaries, canals, and ports. Guangzhou is a significant port city with rich maritime transport resources and is one of the key economic hubs in southern China.

Here on a clear and crystal bed,
A sparkling radiance round thee shed,
Thou view’st the forms and shapes that rise, –
Spires – villages – delight thine eyes.

H.

ANIMATION increases as the city of Canton is approached, not solely from the cultivated character of the enclosing banks, the constant passing of vessels engaged in foreign trade, but more particularly from the vast amount of population permanently located on the watery surface. Pilot-houses, stores, merchants’ villas, and groups of humble dwellings, overshadowed by waving pines, lend an air of cheerfulness to the ever-varying view; and, the style of architecture, combined with the seasonable decorations of the houses, add much agreeable effect to the moving picture. One locality is peculiarly gratifying from the liveliness of the scene, and assemblage of pleasing objects and circumstances.

A row of picturesque cottages, on one bank, is approached from the water by a broad flight of steps, shaded in hot weather by the outspread branches of a lofty forest-tree; on the opposite bank stands a temple of Fo, and a tall pagoda encircled by ramparts, where the Chinese sustained, for some twenty minutes, an attack from a small British force in the recent war with the empire. It is at this place, called the Yellow Pagoda, that so many junks stop, and their crews, disembarking, make offerings to the tutelar deity of the islet for their safe return, or conciliate his favour for a prosperous voyage. From this venerated spot to the city-quays activity and, indeed, confusion, appear to increase with an accelerated speed, so that when once the noble panorama of the Yellow Pagoda, the majestic stream of the Cho-keang, and the distant amphitheatre of hills are passed, Honan and the sounds of the city-streets are soon encountered. This is the principal suburb allotted to foreigners for their residence, but the privilege is accompanied by so many infringements, that the value of the gift is much less than the giver could ever have contemplated. Every promenade is previously occupied by the most idle and ill-conducted of the native population, intermixed with a countless crowd of beggars. These troublesome characters hitherto, that is, previously to the Chinese war, with unblushing effrontery gathered around each foreigner, either to satiate vulgar curiosity, or extort, by pressing importunity, undue alms.

Beyond, or rather through, a dense forest of masts, a view is obtained, from this suburb, of the European pavilion at Canton, and of the factories of foreigners, but, approach thither appears to be impracticable, if not impossible. Barges, barques, boats, junks, and larger vessels lie side by side in one continuous arrangement on the surface, so that no avenue remains for a new arrival. The custom-house, therefore, cannot be reached without the aid of a constabulary force. Even with these auxiliaries the achievement is one of considerable difficulty—one in which torrents of abusive language are sure to flow, repeated blows constantly interchanging, and personal injury not unfrequently inflicted. Some abatement from the uniform violence of these scenes has taken place since the opening of Ning-po, and of other ports, the establishment of more free traffic at Macao, and the settlement of Hong-kong by the English; yet still the Cantonese retain an extensive foreign trade; the population of their city is considerable; and they are not without the hope, that the reign of bigotry may again return, and restore to them their much abused monopoly of European and Indian commerce.

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